Shrimp gnocchi

This past week I’ve been touring some of Chile’s wine regions and had the pleasure of spending my first night at the lovely Hotel Aubrey in Santiago. This is a 20-room boutique hotel in a walkable nightlife district near the mountains and the gondola ride that will take you up for a good city view.

The restaurant at the Aubrey—Pasta E Vino—is a huge draw, to the point where you should make dinner reservations there when you make your hotel reservations. It’s that popular, especially on weekends. It’s a sister restaurant of one in Valparaíso, with the husband-chef managing one and the wife-chef managing the other.

The menu is modern Italian, with a dash of Chile and plenty of local seafood integrated into the gnocchi and ravioli selections. Naturally there is a terrific wine list with the cream of the crop from all over the country. Here are a few photos to give you a visual taste. For more see the restaurant page at the Aubrey’s website.

Scallop ravioli at Pasta E Vino

Many luxury travelers recoil at the thought of staying at an all-inclusive hotel, thinking of it as a vacation factory with routine buffet food, indifferent service, and ho-hum rooms. There is such a thing as a luxury all-inclusive, however, and in Mexico the best examples are three notable Velas properties: two in the Puerto Vallarta region and one in the Riviera Maya region.

I had the pleasure of revisiting Grand Velas Nuevo Vallarta last week and was just as impressed as I was a few years ago. If anything, the operation has improved, despite the challenging tourism environment the past year and a half in Mexico. The staff is polished and bilingual and the rooms are some of the most impressive of any resort in the region. At all the upscale Velas resorts the food is a big draw. I wasn’t able to eat at Frida, Piaf, or Lucca—all AAA 4-diamond a la carte dinner restaurants—but in this resort even what I sampled at the lunch buffet was amazing, especially the fresh seafood, ceviche, and quality wine from Chile. And no need to rush down to snag a poolside lounge chair in the morning: just reserve what you need through the pool concierge. When you arrive he’ll get your reserved chairs ready, bring water or whatever else you need, and even furnish a loaded loaner iPod if you want.

Casa Velas, situated next to a golf course (but with its own private beach club), is a more intimate affair. With only 80 rooms and no buffet meals at the restaurants, this feels like one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World that it is, but everything is wrapped up in one price, including excellent meals, bottles of wine, and top-shelf liquor. The Presidential Suite pictured here may be the best bargain in the whole region: $1,200 for two plus $300 for each additional guest. It sleeps up to eight in its four spacious bedrooms with private bath and there’s a huge terrace with a plunge pool. The rate includes not only meals and drinks, but a stocked bar, a round of golf, a private dinner, and a spa treatment.

Meanwhile, for the other coast, I snagged this dessert photo from this OMG! Yummy blog post on a stay at the Grand Velas Riviera Maya. I can confirm from experience that the food is spectacular there—easily on par with any a la carte restaurants in the region.

With tourism in Mexico still way off from the level it was before the cable news networks started acting like the whole country is one big Ciudad Juarez, the Grand Velas hotels are frequently running deals that make them an undeniable value. All all-inclusives are not created equal and these are a in a different league altogether.

See more luxury hotels in Puerto Vallarta and Punta Mita.

For your lunch time salivating pleasure, here’s a three-course lunch presented from the poolside restaurant with a view at Four Seasons Punta Mita in Mexico. This is the Ketsi restaurant, overseen by Richard Sandoval. (I probably don’t have to tell you that it was all delicious.)

First course: smoked swordfish tostadas

Grilled red Snapper with chili morita Sauce, mango salsa, sweet corn tamal

Dessert: a heavenly Mexican chocolate tart

See more about the beachfront seafood grill (Bahia) and Aramara Asian restaurants at the Four Seasons Punta Mita dining page.

I’ve been spending time in the Puerto Vallarta region of Mexico this past week, checking out some new luxury hotels (more on that later) and checking in on some old favorites—like the stellar Four Seasons Punta Mita.

This iconic Four Seasons functioned as a world on its own at the end of the Punta de Mita peninsula before the St. Regis opened up nearby last year. It’s still clearly the best hotel in the Puerto Vallarta region, however, and though the St. Regis has a great beach and access to the same two stunning golf courses, it can’t quite match the service level and the dramatic location you see in that photo at the top.

Once you get past the prices, it’s hard to find fault with any aspect of this operation: great facilities for kids (including a lazy river pool), a revered spa and adults-only pool to escape the kids, consistently excellent food in three restaurants, and plenty of organized and free activities each day. One family we met there had been staying for two weeks—and they were nowhere close to getting bored of the place yet. Management is continually tweaking, adding, and improving the facilities.

I’ll be updating our Four Seasons Punta Mita review soon to reflect additions and changes, but meanwhile here’s another photo to enjoy, putting you on the beach:

In cheesy, overbuilt Cancun, wouldn’t it be nice to have a filtered guide to the best beaches, the best eats, and the best bars not filled with drunk 18-year-olds? Download the Cool Cancun app from the iTunes Apps store—for the moment on sale for 99 cents—and you’ll be immediately in the know.

I like to give a shout-out when one of our regular contributors to Luxury Latin America has something else in the works worth mentioning. This is something I can highly recommend. Zora O’Neill writes the Rough Guide to the Yucatan and Cancun & Cozumel Directions. Over the years she has developed a keen sense of what’s worthwhile and where the bargains are.

The app gives opinionated and spot-on reviews of a few paragraphs each in several categories, which you can search by name, location, or price. There are Basics (transportation, hotels, beach tips), restaurants, clubs, shopping, and more. That includes one addition you won’t get from the likes of Time Out: “Kid-friendly.”

Admit it, if you’re spending every day at the Ritz-Carlton Cancun, after a while aren’t you itching to get out and eat some real Mexican food, maybe some tacos pastor at a lively stand that’s open past midnight? Download Cool Cancun and Isla Mujeres and you’ll be chowing down and hitting the cool clubs like a local expat, frequenting the great places and ignoring the worst tourist traps. If you’re heading that way, it’s a no-brainer.

Haven’t made plans yet? See our reviews of the best hotels in Cancun and Isla Mujeres.