Playa Santa Teresa, Nicoya, Costa Rica
With its stupendous oceanfront position and gorgeous Asiatic–inspired aesthetic, Flor Blanca Resort is in a league of its own as a small boutique beachfront hotel with panache, offering true luxe in an equally luxuriant coastal setting. The resort's success is all the more remarkable for its location on an otherwise avowedly low–key surfer's beach.
Stretching along seven acres of forested beachfront and named for the florblanca whose white petals form a fragrant carpet underfoot, this understatedly chic retreat draws its inspiration from Bali. The hotel is hidden by a low wall at the far north end of a gorgeously rugged gray–sand beach, beyond which the dirt coast road turns into an Indiana Jones–style adventure. Visionary creator Susan Moody had prior experience as a hotelier with her Sueño del Mar bed–and–breakfast, up the coast at Tamarindo. Following a trip to Indonesia, she raised the ante and dedicated several years to construct a resort hotel with a serenity that soothes and satisfies both body and soul. (In 2006, Moody and her husband Greg sold the hotel, but will remain as managers for two years, ensuring a continuity to the hotel's informally gracious style.)
Buddhist prayer flags flutter over the spacious gravel parking lot, separated from the resort proper by a low wall. Beyond the entranceway, charcoal–gray flagstone paths ease down through a glade of palms and almond and plumeria trees offering tantalizing glimpses of the surf. Riotous foliage rises all around, hiding the villas to each side. The path spills down to the multi–purpose, open–walled main building edging up to the beach. Here, the small reception adjoins the restaurant and bar overlooking a stone paved sundeck arcing around two freeform pools––one with gradual wade–in access––overhung by a Balinese–style lounging palapa that doubles at night as a lovers' private dining terrace. The core of the social scene is the poolside Nectar Restaurant and Bar, a lofty timbered space whose arcing cocktail bar doubles as a sushi bar. Canadian–born Demian Geneau is among Costa Rica's stellar young chefs producing inventive Pacific Rim fusion seafood dishes using regional products. Assisted by sous chef Spencer Graves, Geneau sets the standard to beat along the entire Pacific coast of Costa Rica by combining inspired creativity and exemplary execution with a conscientious pursuit of only the freshest and finest ingredients. Sublime treats include the warm pistachio–crusted goat cheese and roasted beet appetizer, and whole–roasted snapper prepared Thai–style with Caribbean chutney. Sushi here is simply mouth–watering. Even the multi–course breakfasts are a lavish treat. And the bar serves a complete list of cocktails.
When not munching and tippling, guests can laze in the air–conditioned TV room, discover the artist within in an art and pottery studio, or walk the beach good for tidepooling and spotting wildlife along the jungled shore (swimming is not advised directly in front of the hotel due to powerful undertows and the rocky reef break). Surf lessons are offered, as are snorkeling excursions, horseback rides, and guided nature walks in nearby Cabo Blanco Absolute Wildlife Refuge. Susan's daughter Nancy runs yoga classes, held in an open–air dojo graced by antique Oriental pieces. And a broad range of treatments are offered in the relatively small and simple spa (new owner Rusty Carter intends to convert one villa into a more gracious and well–equipped spa, while turning the Moody's beachfront two–story home into a deluxe honeymoon suite).
 The ten vast villas nestle deep amid the hillside foliage (only Villa 1 has ocean views). Done up throughout in soft ochers and creams, with teak accents and furnishings, these simply luxurious quarters offer genuine terra cotta underfoot, while ceiling fans stir the air in huge lounges (open to the elements on three sides; drop down screens offer protection in inclement weather) extending to arching terraces with rattan lounge chairs. Each unit has a dining space, wet bar, poured–cement sofa, and understated decor featuring the occasional Balinese mask and Costa Rican water colors and craft pieces. Bedrooms are air–conditioned and feature lofty teak king beds resting on a poured concrete headboard shelf, supporting rolled–bamboo lamps plus halogen reading lamps. An overhead rack supports a ceiling fan directly over the bed, plus a romantic muslin canopy drape. Accoutrements include CD player and telephone plus in–room safe. Outdoor bathrooms set in walled gardens are a visual delight with their poured concrete sink and countertops, shaded shower, and sunken two–person tub shaped like a boat.
The youthful staff (many are keen surfers) deliver enthusiastic service. The overall mood is laid–back and unpretentious, with a family spirit invoked by the Moody's casual home–away–from–home friendly style. Nonetheless, this lovely hotel is sufficiently sophisticated to have drawn the likes of the Kennedys.
Web Address: www.florblanca.com
Total Number of Rooms: 10
Published rates: $375 to $655
Review and photos by Christopher Baker
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