Between Punta Leona and Playa Herradura, Costa Rica
Combining the finest setting of any hotel in all Costa Rica with sophisticated décor and an irresistibly romantic mood, this stylish hilltop hotel reflects the owner's good taste and attention to detail in every regard, setting the standard for other hotels to beat.
Arriving at a hotel rarely invokes the kind of excitement guests feel upon entering Villa Caletas' driveway, which snakes along a mountaintop ridge offering dramatic vistas to each side. Lined with riverstone walls, the mile–long driveway is studded with cacti in classical amphorae. In fact, the entire complex is infused with a patriarchal Romanesque theme melded with French–colonial inspired architecture with gabled roofs and gingerbread trim. The freestanding reception hall, behind soaring castle–like walls of riverstone, combines classical statuary and contemporary art plus staggering coastal views through a vast picture window. An orchid arcade frames the pathway leading to the lobby, reached via a double–staircase. With its charcoal–and–cream checkered floors and combination of black, blood–red and warm ochers, the effect is immediately bold and inviting.
The hotel, crowning a 1,000–foot peak, makes the most of its mountaintop location and breezes ease through the hallway and twin lounges decorated with tasteful and eclectic pieces that range from animal and reptile skeletons and antique furnishings to exquisite framed art. A large aquarium inset in one wall provides additional interest.
The main restaurant––El Mirador––is well–named and has wrap–around walls of glass for fully enjoying the views across the Gulf of Nicoya. Open for dinner only, it delivers gourmet international fare and a few local dishes served with attentive formality; the large wine list spans the globe, and prices are extremely reasonable. Guest chefs such as Michelin–starred Armand Mourinha are occasionally hired, and an annual month–long international food fest is a highlight. The regal Anfiteatro Sunset Restaurant and Bar, open throughout the day, offers a regal indoor setting plus airy patio all the better for enjoying the diverse wildlife––monkeys, toucans, parrots, macaws, coatis––constantly present at fingertip distance. The views down over the forested mountainside that cascades sharply to the coast are sublime, and made more so by an intimate Greek–style amphitheater where occasional classical, jazz and New Age concerts are hosted (the hotel is also a setting each July and August for Costa Rica's International Music Festival). Similar music plays throughout the day and the sunsets from this point are spectacular.
 Framed by riotous foliage, a wade–in, rock–edged infinity pool seems suspended in mid–air. It, and the wooden sundeck, are open to guests only. Tucked atop its own ridge is a Serenity Spa where full–service treatments are offered both indoors and alfresco. While the entire mood here induces a let–go lassitude, a small yet well–equipped gym is on hand for guests wishing a work out. A mile below, the small and rocky beach has lounge chairs and a snack bar, plus showers and restroom; guests can opt for a shuttle or get a good workout on the hike down and back. A small gift shop is stocked with only the highest quality souvenirs, including a museum–quality display of gold jewelry.
The six types of rooms and suites at Villa Caletas vary markedly in size, although all impress and even the standards are truly deluxe rooms. These are in the main building and have the advantage of providing easy access to the public facilities, while satellite villas and suites are built into the hill–face and some require a stiff hike along a maze of stairways winding down through a Fantasia of lush foliage. Torrential rainfall is a frequent occurrence, and although oversize umbrellas are provided in all rooms, the hike to and from the villas and suites can mean getting wet. At night the chirping of myriad frogs and insects is ample compensation. Black wicker and antique furnishings combine with rich color schemes and lush Oriental fabrics and throw rugs, plus lavish art pieces, to create a lovely mood. Cable TV is standard, as are ceiling fans and modern air–conditioning plus in–room safe and minibar. All villas open to balconies and coastal views. Bathrooms in standard rooms are a tad small, and shelf space is limited.
 The suites (in four configurations, including junior suites) are sumptuous. Furnishings, including wrought–iron four–poster beds to irresistible effect. The suites––fusing a quasi–Roman imperial style with oriental motifs––have their own plunge pools, and Superior and Master suites have pools and sundecks, plus their own parking and direct entrance. That is a considerable advantage given that public parking here is limited and one of few flaws at this luxurious retreat.
The rates are an exceptional bargain for such a superlative property. Staffing is courteous and efficient under sound management. Denis Roy, the French owner, has taken a more hands–off role in recent years, although he continues to add exciting new elements yearly. The vision is almost entirely his: Roy was an interior designer to Arabian princes during his years in Paris. The latest addition––appropriately called Palacio––will open in 2007 as the most sumptuous hotel in the country, taking Villa Caletas to new heights with its seven stupendous rooms.
Web Address: www.villacaletas.com
Total Number of Rooms: 30
Published rates: $130 to $470
Review and photos by Christopher Baker
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